Alteration of permanently pressed garments



April 1, 1969 A, AY 3,435,463

ALTERATION OF PERMANENTLY PRESSED GARMENTS Filed July 7. 1966 INVENTORHUB/8E Y J74 Y United States Patent 3,435,463 ALTERATION OF PERMANENTLYPRESSED GARMENTS Aubrey Jay, White Plains, N.Y., assignor to J. C.Penney Company, Inc., New York, N.Y., a corporation of Delaware FiledJuly 7, 1966, Ser. No. 563,542 Int. Cl. A41d 27/10 US. Cl. 2-269 7Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A permanently pressed garment isaltered by first securing over the line of alteration with a fusiblestrip of a cohesive spun web of self-bonded continuous lengths ofpolymeric fibers in multidirectional overlapping and intersectingarrangement throughout the sheet and having a sheet density greater thanabout 0.40 oz./yd. and the polymeric fibers being fusible at atemperature and pressure and for a period below that required to scorchthe fabric. Thereafter, the fabric is folded along the line ofalteration to sandwich the strip therebetween and heat and pressure areapplied to the folded fabric for a period sufiicient to cause the fusionof the strip thereby bonding the folded fabric at areas having the stripsecured thereon upon subsequent cooling of the fabric.

This invention relates to a method for altering permanently pressedgarments or apparel. Garments of this type are made of fabricsimpregnated or pretreated with a thermosetting resin and aresubsequently pressed or otherwise subject to a finishing treatment toset the resin in the fabrics and to press the garments into the desiredpermanent shape. The finished products have a smooth and pressedappearance and have found wide consumer acceptance because of theirability to maintain their press and crease throughout continued wear andeven after numerous washings and cleanings.

In the finishing treatment, the setting of the resin in the fabricimparts a permanent fabric memory therein which enables the garment tomaintain its original shape. Because of the permanent fabric memory,subsequent alteration or adjustment of the garment cannot be madesatisfactorily. The altered garment lacks its original smooth andpressed appearance. The difficulty in altering permanently pressed typegarments thus creates a problem heretofore not experienced by themanufacturers and retailers of ready-to-wear garments. Partially toovercome this problem, it becomes necessary for the manufacturers toincrease the number of available sizes and have the retailer to fit thecustomer as closely as possible without alteration. This approach isneither economical nor satisfactory.

I have now found that the permanently pressed garments made of resinimpregnated fabrics and set into a permanent shape may be altered simplyand efliciently according to the method of this invention. In thepresent method, a line of alteration of the garment is first determined.A fusible strip of a predetermined width is then secured over the lineof alteration. After folding the fabric along the line of alteration tosandwich the strip therebetween, heat and pressure are then appliedsimultaneously to the folded fabric for a period sufficient to cause thefusion of the strip thereby binding the folded fabric at areas havingthe fusible strip secured therebetween upon subsequent cooling of thefabric.

The fusible strip is a sheet in cohesive spun web form of self-bondedcontinuous length of polymeric fibers in multiple directionaloverlapping and intersecting arrangement throughout the sheet and has asheet density greater ice than above 0.40 oz./yd. The polymeric fibersof the sheet are fusible at a temperature and a pressure and for aperiod below that required to scorch the fabric. The sheet in cohesivespun web form is preferably made of a polyamide material which can befused into the fabric by the application of steam and pressure.

Other polymeric compounds having a low melting point and capable ofbonding the fabrics can also be used provided that the sheet has a lowWeight density and high porosity whereby the application of heat andpressure, such as those of an iron, will cause the sheet to melt andbond the fabric without causing the fused polymeric material topenetrate to the opposite surface of the fabric. Suitable sheets of thistype can have a sheet density varying from a range from 0.4 oz./yd. toabout 2 oz./yd. A fusible strip that I have found to be eminentlysuitable is available commercially under the trade name Wonder Undermanufactured by the Pellen Corporation of New York. This fusible stripis available as a continuous and peelable sheet on a paper carrier or ona transfer medium from which the strip can be easily transferred to thegarment to be altered. The fusible strip has a sheet density in therange from 0.45 to 1.8 oz./yd.

The method of this invention which can be practiced without any specialequipment is particularly suitable for retail stores to alterpermanently pressed garments. Its simplicity makes the method alsoattractive for home application. The garment when altered in a manneraccording to the present invention retains its original pressed andsmooth appearance and does not have the puckering and cockling problemsprevalent in altered permanently pressed garments. The altered garmentalso has substantially the same drapability and hang and will standrepeated washings or dry cleanings.

The present method may be used to alter vertical seams, for exampleseams running with the warp of the fabric such as side seams, seatseams, insearns, etc. It may also be conveniently used to adjust thelength of a garment,- such as bottom hems and cuffs for skirts andtrousers. These specific applications of the present method aredescribed hereinbelow with reference to the accompanying drawingswherein:

FIGS. 1-5 are perspective views of a segment of a permanently pressedgarment illustrating the steps required by the two alternativeprocedures to form a new seam thereon;

FIGS. 6-8 are perspective views of a lower segment of a permanentlypressed trouser illustrating the steps for forming a hem therefor; and

FIGS. 9-10 are perspective views of a lower segment of a permanentlypressed trouser illustrating the steps for providing a c'uff thereto.

Referring initially to FIG. 1, the typical procedure according to thepresent invention, for altering a vertical seam of a garment 10 joiningtwo pieces of fabric 11 and 12, requires initial determination of theposition of the new seam. This operation may be carried out by placingthe surface sides of the two pieces of fabric 11 and 12 facing eachother and drawing a line 13 or providing markings on the garment 10where the new seam is to be located. Once the position of the new seamis decided, a fusible strip 14, which has the characteristics describedhereinabove, is then placed centrally over the line 13 on the wrong sideof the fabric 11. The fusible strip 14 is secured thereon by stitchingor sewing along line 13.

The width of the fusible strip can be varied. It, however, should not beso wide as to protrude from the edge 15. For a normal vertical seam, awidth in the order of /8 inch to 1 inch is adequate. The sheet densityof the fusible strip should be commensurate with the weight of thefabric 11 and 12. In other words, for a light fabric,

a low sheet density strip is used and for a heavy fabric, a heavierstrip. Normally, the sheet density of the fusible strip should be aslight as possible provided that it would still have the required bondingstrength. The strips should not be so heavy as to increase appreciablythe thickness along the seam or to cause markings on the surface side.

After the first fusible strip 14 is secured on the wrong side of thefabric 11, the garment is turned over and a second similar fusible strip16 is centrally placed along line 13 on the wrong side of the fabric 12.This strip is similarly sewed on along line 13 as shown in FIG. 2. Afterthe fusible strips 14 and 16 are secured on the wrong sides of the twopieces of fabric 11 and 12, they are then laid opened, and the freeedges 15 and 17 of the two pieces of fabric, respectively, are foldedalong line 13 as shown in FIG. 3. The folding of the free edges 15 and17 sandwich the fusible strips 14 and 16 between the free edge and thewrong side of the fabric 11 and 12. Heat and pressure are applied tocause the fusion of the fusible strip. Upon subsequent cooling, the freeedges 15 and 17 are bonded to the fabric 11 and 12 at the areas definedwithin the two dotted lines 18 and 19.

This operation may be carried out conveniently by using a conventionalsteam iron to press open the seam. The temperature of the iron isadjusted according to the fabric and is held momentarily, for exampleabout five seconds, to allow the steam and the heat to penetrate throughthe fabric causing the fusion of the strip, thereby forming the newseam. The surface side of this seam preferably is also pressed by asteam iron or a conventional pressing machine using steam. Upon coolingand drying of the garments, the fused strips 14 and 16 provide thegarment 10 with a pressed and smooth new seam.

Instead of stitching or sewing, the fusible strip may be secured on thefabric by an alternative method which is illustrated by FIGS. 4 and 5.In this method heat and pressure are used to effect a temporary bondbetween the fusible strip 20 and the base fabric 21. This operation maybe accomplished by a transfer process using a fusible strip supported bya carrier such as glassine paper. The fusible strip on the carrier isplaced over the line of alteration with the fusible strip facing thefabric. A dry iron is then applied to the carrier which transmits theheat and pressure to the fusible strip causing artial fusion of thestrip and bonding it to the fabric. The carrier is peeled off aftercooling. The temperature, pressure and time required for the transferare below the conditions required for the complete fusion of the strip.

After a second fusible strip 22 is similarly secured on the wrong sideof the fabric 23, the two pieces of fabric 21 and 23 with their surfacesides facing each other are then joined by sewing along the line ofalteration 24. The seam is then pressed open in a similar operationdescribed hereinabove and illustrated in FIG. 3.

Referring now to FIGS. 6 to 8, the length of a trouser is adjusted byfirst determining on the leg 25 of the trouser the line of alteration 26which represents the final length of the trouser. The leg 25 is thenturned inside out and a fusible strip 27 is placed centrally over theline 26 all around the inside periphery on the wrong side of the fabric.The fusible strip may be secured on the fabric by either stitching or byheat and pressure. After the strip is secured thereon, the leg is foldedup along line 26 as shown in FIG. 7 and the free edge 28 is stitched onto the body of the leg 25. The leg 25 is turned over to its normalposition as shown in FIG. 8. Heat and pressure are then applied to causethe fusion of the fusible strip 27 sandwiched between the fabric bondingthe folded fabric along the area defined by the dotted line 29 and theline 26, and providing a pressed and smooth appearance. The proceduresfor providing a hem for the trouser are also applicable to providebottom hems for coats, skirts, and the like.

To provide cuffs for the trousers, additional steps may be required.These steps are illustrated by FIGS. 9 and 10. After the hem for thecufiedtl'ouser is first finished according to the procedure illustratedby FIGS. 6 to 8, a second fusible strip 30 is secured centrally along aline 31 which determines the final length of the cuffed trouser 32. Thestrip is secured around the outer periphery of the leg. The hem for thefinal cufif must be longer than the final length by the width of thecuff. The leg is folded up to form the cuff sandwiching the fusiblestrip 30 therebetween.

I claim:

1. A method for altering garments made of resin impregnated fabrics andset into a permanent shape, said method comprising: I

determining a line of alteration on said garment;

securing over said line a fusible strip of a predetermined width of asheet in cohesive spun web form of selfbonded continuous lengths ofpolymeric fibers in multiple-directional overlapping and intersectingarrangement throughout the sheet and having a sheet density greater thanabout 0.40 oz./yd. said polymeric fibers being fusible at a temperatureand pressure and for a period below that required to scorch the fabric;

folding the fabric along the line of alteration to sandwich said striptherebetween; and

simultaneously applying heat and pressure to the folded fabric for aperiod sufficient to cause the fusion of said strip thereby bonding thefolded fabric at areas having said strip secured thereon upon subsequentcooling of the fabric.

2. A method according to claim -1 wherein said fusible strip is a sheetin cohesive spun web form of self-bonded continuous lengths of polyamidefibers in multidirectional overlapping and intersecting arrangementthroughout the sheet to provide a sheet density in the range of 0.45oz./ yd. to 1.80 oz./yd. said polyamide fibers being fusible by steamand the heat applied to said folded fabric is in the form of steam.

3. A method for altering a seam joining two pieces of a garment made ofresin impregnated fabrics and set into a permanent shape, said methodcomprising:

determining a line of alteration for the new seam on said garment,securing over said line on each of the two opposite sides of saidadjoining pieces a fusible strip of a predetermined width of a sheet incohesive spun web form of self-bonded continuous lengths of polyamidefibers in multi-directional overlapping and intersecting arrangementthroughout the sheet to provide a sheet density in the range of 0.45oz./yd. to 1.80 oz./yd. said polyamide fibers being fusible by steam ata temperature and pressure and for a period below that required toscorch the fabric; stitching along said line to join said two piecesleaving a free edge on each of the two pieces;

folding the two free edges in opposite directions to sandwich thefusible strips therebetween; and

simultaneously applying steam and pressure to the folded pieces for aperiod sufiicient to cause the fusion of said strips thereby bonding thefolded pieces at areas having said strips secured thereon uponsubsequent cooling of the fabric thereby forming said new seam.

4. A method according to claim 3 in which the fusible strips are securedon the opposite sides of the adjoining pieces by stitches which alsoform the stitches of the new seam.

5. A method according to claim 3 in which the fusible strips are securedon the opposite sides of the adjoining pieces by heat and pressure at atemperature and for a period sufficient to secure said strips thereonand below that required to cause complete fusion of said strips.

6. 'A method for adjusting the length of a garment made of resinimpregnated fabrics and set into a permanent shape by providing a hemtherefor, said method comprising:

determining a line of alteration on said garment representing theadjusted length;

securing over said line a fusible strip of a predetermined width of asheet in cohesive spun web form of selfbonded continuous lengths ofpolyamide fibers in rnulti-directional overlapping and intersectingarrangernent throughout the sheet to provide a sheet density in therange of 0.45 oz./yd. to 1.80 oz./yd. said polyamide fibers beingfusible by steam at a temperature and pressure and for a period belowthat required to scorch the fabric;

folding the fabric along the line to sandwich said fusible striptherebetween; and

simultaneously applying steam and pressure to the folded fabric for aperiod sutficient to cause the fusion of said strip thereby bonding thefolded fabric at areas having said strip secured thereon upon subsequentcooling of the fabric thereby forming said hem.

7. A method for adjusting the length of trousers made of resinimpregnated fabrics and set into a permanent shape by providing cuffsfor the legs of the trousers, said method comprising:

determining a line of alteration on each of the legs representing thelength of the trousers plus the width of the cuff;

securing over said line and around the inside circumference of the leg afirst fusible strip of a predetermined width of a sheet in cohesive spunweb form of self-bonded continuous lengths of polyamide fibers inmulti-direct-ional overlapping and intersecting arrangement throughoutthe sheet to provide a sheet density in the range of 0.45 oz./yd. to1.80 oz./yd. said polyamide fibers being fusible by steam at atemperature and pressure and for a period below that required to scorchthe fabric;

folding the fabric along the line to sandwich said fusible striptherebetween;

simultaneously applying steam and pressure to the folded fabric for aperiod suflicient to cause the fusion of said strip thereby bonding thefolded fabric;

securing a second fusible strip similar to said first fusible strip overa second line of alteration on each of the legs representing the lengthof the trousers and around the outside circumference of the leg;

folding the fabric along the second line to sandwich said fusible striptherebetween; and

simultaneously applying steam and pressure to the folded fabric for aperiod sufficient to cause the fusion of said strip thereby forming saidcuff.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,413,885 4/1922 Anderson 22433,025,622 3/ 1962 Hilton 3814-4 3,137,865 6/1964 Evans et a1 2243 X3,166,765 1/ 1965 Getchell 2243 X 3,168,749 2/ 1965 Cala 2243 3,328,8097/1967 Payne et al 2269 FOREIGN PATENTS 894,129 4/ 1962 Great Britain.

OTHER REFERENCES Daily News Record, pp. 25-29, published Feb. 7, 1966.

HERBERT F. ROSS, Primary Examiner.

US. Cl. X.R.

